=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= - P.I.S.S. Philez Number 31 = = - - Jamming Police Radar = = - - by AT2Screech = =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= [You may notice that this is part of a .zip file. Duh. It contains a graphic for the frequencies the infrared uses. He wrote a section that goes with it...and here goes. -Def] And Now Jamming Police Radar NOTES: 1. This is all theory. No, really. Honest. I Know nothing about what I am talking about, I just sat down with my eyes closed and banged on the keyboard and this is what was on the screen when I looked up. 2. Yes, this is illegal. 3. I am not responsible for what happens to you if you try it. 4. The person you got this phile isn’t responsible either. 5. These read like refrigerator instructions, don’t they. Police radars function off of three primary methods of operation, Laser, IR (Infra-Red,) and Microwave guns. We’re going to concentrate on the latter two since there is nothing really you can do about the first one since it’s a serious pain in the ass to defeat. The best piece of advice that I can offer before you get started experimenting is that you can outrun a car, but you’ll never outrun a radio. Outrunning radios is an entirely different text. Yes I realize the radar part of the text is sadly lacking in information at the moment. IR Speed Detection BASICS: These come in two forms, the gun and forward/rearward hard mounted systems, both are EXTREMELY easy to defeat. What they do is send a large burst of far infra-red energy and wait for the pulse to be reflected back and then read the Doppler shift between the sent and received pulses. The difference is integrated internally and then passed to the display where whammo! Officer Bob now knows that you’re driving 85 and probably should be either pulled over and arrested or pulled over and arrested. WHAT TO DO ABOUT IT: Since these things are looking for a specific frequency of IR all you have to do is flood the surrounding area with IR energy. The detector circuitry is looking for a specific pulse in a specific timeframe with a very narrow set of characteristics, (either a sine or square wave, nS/mS duration pulse, the actual signal type/length is dependant on model and manufacturer,) so the idea here is to clutter the ever living hell out of the general area with IR energy of all sorts. This is the equivalent of you standing in an empty room and playing Marco Polo with someone, and playing the same game at a Front Line Assembly concert. Yes, you can hear all sorts of rather lovely industrial tunage but chances are you aren’t going to hear that little "Polo" you’re looking for. HOW TO DO IT: IR sources can be obtained from most scientific supply warehouses, some of them have some fairly severe power requirements so watch what you buy. This is for the more power hungry sort, remember to build wisely and use slack in your designs. 1. Obtain IR source and documentation, it should at a minimum cover the Far and part of the Middle portion of the IR spectrum. Obtain a copy of the EM spectrum from a science book. 2. Construct a power/isolation circuit tailored to you particular source. This should accept the voltage from your alternator and boost/convert/obfuscate the voltage/amperage to a point where it is usable by whatever it is you’re using. NOTE: Use LOW GAUGE, (thick, very thick,) wire for this, the best stuff is the kind used to wire high amperage stereo systems together. 3. Build a small temperature isolated encasement. This can either be done with ceramic or with metal. It should be vented via baffles, (or a high output fan for advanced folks,) on the sides and about three inches of the source should stick above the top rim. The best kind are cylinders which shed heat more evenly than boxes and don’t have any sharp corners to concentrate heat at. 4. Obtain a IR transparent glass dome to place over the top of the exposed source, high temp stuff again. Pyrex works nicely but be careful not to drive around with it on all day. 5. It should wind up looking like a bullet with the emitter dome at the top. 6. Mount on car, below line of sight from inside the car but facing forward. These things can be mounted in whatever direction you are expecting to encounter cops, I personally would mount it on the front, statistically speaking. 7. Wire on/off switch to dashboard. WARNINGS: Some IR sources put out a shitload of heat, IR energy and use vast quantities of electricity. They take anywhere from 2 seconds to 4 minutes to warm up and start doing their job. Avoid staring at them, (just don’t look at them period while operating,) and DO NOT touch them or you WILL burn the hell out of yourself. Use is recommended in situations where you need to go and go fast for a short period of time, use a digital timer to keep track of how long this thing has been on. Operating this thing will also turn you into a giant IR target so running from cops with FLIR, (heat sensing,) systems on their helicopters is out of the question. RANGE: Limited to type of IR source. Some military grade sources can pump out a 500 yard sphere of IR and require some high end engineering to get to work with a car’s electrical system. You should figure out what you’re going to use it for and since IR guns have LIMITED range stick to about 150-200 feet. TESTING: Try it on an actual IR system if possible, if not try on one of the speed boxes they put out to tell you how fast you’re going. You can identify an IR emitter by the fact that they have red or maroon glass on the front, (emitter end,) of them. The most common faults you are going to run into are incorrect power supply or a dead source if you have been using it for a long time, read the information that came with your particular source for duty cycle, (maximum period of time on before it needs a break,) data. ALTERNATE POSSIBILITIES: "Acquire" a large spotlight from your local radio shack, (the cigarette lighter powered sort,) and an IR filter. This should be a large piece of red colored glass that you can get either through science supply warehouses, at a nearby military/civilian electronics warehouse, or through your local militia. Mount glass to the front of the spotlight and you now have a line-of-sight type device that you can whip out and point at things. Another method would be just to reconfigure a clear box used in the manipulation of street signals. FOR THE ADVANCED FOLKS: Use an oscilliscope and a IR detector and figure out if your locals are using pulse train IR guns. I do not know for sure if these exist but I have heard rumors, if they are E-MAIL ME AND TELL ME ABOUT IT WITH AN ACCOMPANYING ANALYSIS. If this is true, well, you’re going to have to figure out how to emulate a pulse train. Suggestion would be to use a spinning wheel with breaks in it to allow IR out at specified intervals. I have yet to encounter such a system in use but if you do, I would like to hear about it. Microwave or "Radar" Detection BASICS: These work off of the same essential idea as IR guns with a couple of major differences. First off, instead of just sending a vanilla pulse of energy out and looking at what comes back and the difference between the two, Radar guns send out modulated pulses. The trick here is to get the modulation down such that you can emulate it, this takes a bit of doing but is not impossible. Secondly, radar guns operate at the GHz range, (gigahertz,) which means that if you’re not careful with them you can wind up sterile or giving yourself RF, (radio frequency,) burns. Anyone not familiar with RF burns READ THIS NOW, what happens is you cook yourself, (charcoal is the better word,) from the inside out, meaning you don’t know it’s happening until your skin melts. Yucky shit. The more persistent folks may read on. Most police radars run in the X, Ku, K, and Ka bands, (new designations for these bands if anyone cares are I, J, and K, copies of the revised government frequency designation chart ahould have been included in this phile with the text, yes this is public domain type information) for frequency people that’s between 8-40 GHz, most of them falling in the Ku and Ka bands. The radar gun sends out a modulated square wave signal that bounces off the target and has it’s wavelength compressed or decompressed by the relative velocity and direction of travel of the object being clocked, (again, Doppler rears it’s ugly head.) Now I could get into a discussion on Pulse Width and Pulse Repetition Time and their relation to radar systems but I think I’d wind up putting most everyone to sleep so I’ll just skip to the good stuff. WHAT YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT: Again, the idea is to overwhelm the receiver with erroneous input, this is accomplished by constructing, (or borrowing from an appliance,) a small microwave resonating cavity or microwave oscillator. This thing will not only need to be tunable but cover a fairly wide section of the EM, (electromagnetic,) spectrum in order to jam the hell out of any radar system, (see the attached diagram most police radar falls into the X, Ka, and Ku bands,) you come across. This is the VERY illegal part, the FCC says that you cannot, without license to do so, possess, design or sell any equipment designed to transmit RF energy more than 500 feet. Well, that’s about damn right because how often have you gone bezerk after your radar detector went off and found a cop sitting right there. Almost the every time right? Exactly, that’s the true beauty here, you aren’t really violating any laws and you can semi-legally, (don’t quote me on that,) build and operate one of these without endless legal hassle. HOW TO DO IT: This is not as easy as I make it look here, you are going to have to do some SERIOUS investigation into radar theory to get this down. 1. First you are going to need to find out what kind of radar the local LEO, (law enforcement officer,) types are using. Do this by driving about in a car with a radar detector through all the native speed traps you can find. The more the better. 2. Construct a small microwave oscillator. I am currently authoring a text on resonant cavities for the beginner so if you are still interested drop me a line and I can provide this information for you. The best start is to obtain either the magnetron from a microwave oven and reverse-engineer it or to get what is called a "Gunn" diode. These things produce microwave RF and can be coupled to a tuned cavity to spit out GHz RF without a whole lot of trouble. 3. Mount behind plastic grill of vehicle. THIS IS IMPORTANT! PLASTIC ONLY! Mounting behind a metal grill will scatter 99% of the RF into your engine compartment and do you absolutely no good at all. If you’re running a more powerful resonant cavity then you may even run the risk of killing your engine’s electrical system. Well, if you do that then you won’t have to worry about speeding because YOU ARE NOT GOING ANYWHERE FAST. Nyuck. 4. Wire accordingly. You can use Zener diodes wired to a radar detector to set this device off every time the detector goes bananas. WARNINGS: Like I said before, if you are not careful you run a serious risk of hurting yourself or at the bare minimum irradiating Aunt Flo and Uncle Roy as you pull out of the driveway. Well, maybe that’s a good idea on second thought. Do these people need to reproduce? Hmmm…food for thought. RANGE: Limited to line of sight. Period. TESTING: Tuning cavities and the like is made MUCH easier with RF meters and RF spectrometers. These are some fairly heavy pieces of equipment to come across. Your best bet is a upper level college or university with a solid electronics program. Most radio stations should, (in theory,) have a meter or two laying around. If they have the right frequency range is another matter. Most of the common problems you are going to run into are the wrong frequency or harmonics increasing your standing wave ratio, (SWR,) to a point where you cannot radiate at all. This text isn’t detailed enough to the point where I would recommend going out and doing this on your own, I am still working out the little bits as to how to construct one of these. If you know enough and do a touch of research on your own you can probably figure it out from the ideas I have put forth. There will be an addition in the near future hopefully with schematics. ALTERNATE (AND THOROUGHLY RIDICULOUS) POSSIBILITIES: Since the fall of communism in good ‘ol Mother Russia, these people have been selling off all kinds of crazy shit at rock bottom prices, including countermeasures pods used on Soviet Air Force planes. (There’s some crazed farmer who plows his fields with Russian T-72 tanks, sans turret, I think the guy lives in Colorado.) Here’s the plan: make contact with your neighborhood Russian mobster, tell him that: "I want to buy a avionics suite for the Su-35 including the ECM pods." Better yet, tell him you want to buy the whole thing, (the entire plane,) and go ahead and card it, Ivan wont mind one damn bit that you didn’t pay him. No really, they’re that desperate to unload the hardware. Anyway, go ahead and get your plane, learn to fly it and when you get good just take that bad boy and strafe the hell out of any cop cars you see with that lovely little GSh-30 30mm cannon. Just a thought. Of course if you managed to get the thing working you could blank out any radio communications within a pretty good area, and I mean everything including cable TV, cell fones, all sorts of crap. Enough of that. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- PISS - People into Serious Shit Founderz - Defenestrator, PhrostByte Memberz - Author Parselon Wu Forever kQs CGibbons Extinction Faekon/Homarid Grench Greenseed Tim 121 Rhodekyll Dial Tone Psycho Phreak Djdude Circular Reclusion Havok Luther AT2Screech Contributors- Sameer Ketkar PISS, the author, and anyone else does not take responsibility for what you do with the stuph contained in this phile. If you get busted, don't cry to us. We don't care. Want more stuph? Go to http://www.angelfire.com/sc/PISS/philez.html The site will change as soon as I get money for one.. E-mail the group at chrisbarron@hotmail.com (C) Copyright 1997 PISS Publications and also copyrighted by the author. This file may be posted freely as long as this notice stays on the end. All rights reserved.